Can New Art Be Created in the 21st Century?

This fundamental question is the central driving force of 90Lab, founded by Nathalie Illouz, Artistic Director and Regenerative Experience Strategist with over 20 years of international leadership in the fields of luxury, hospitality, beauty, spirits, and experiential design.
More than a laboratory, 90Lab defines itself as a laboratory of emotional engineering serving regenerative impact, with art as one of the main tools to achieve this goal.

Emotional engineering, often associated with Kansei Engineering (from the Japanese “Kansei Kangaku”), is a branch of engineering that aims to develop or improve services or products by converting the psychological and emotional needs of clients into design parameters. In other words, it establishes a link between users’ emotional responses and the properties and characteristics of a product or service, thereby enabling the creation of products specifically designed to evoke a particular emotion.

In the context of 90Lab, this form of engineering is applied to the development of collaborative digital or physical environments across three business verticals:

• Product innovation,
  
• Strengthening the relationship between an entity and its most valued clients through the creation of unique and memorable experiences designed to transform them into brand ambassadors, and
  
• Marketing campaign innovation.
  

Its mission is bold: to repair the present, to imagine what comes after contemporary art, and to demonstrate that art can once again serve as a catalyst for innovation, science, and society. Art is therefore not an end in itself, but a powerful lever for designing experiences that restore, connect, and elevate.

90Lab is not a company but an association governed by French law 1901, reinforcing its collaborative ethos and allowing it to operate within the framework of mécénat (sponsorship). This structure offers strategic advantages: industrial groups and institutions can support a pioneering and meaningful project while benefiting from sponsorship mechanisms that enhance both impact and credibility.

The foundation of 90Lab rests on the principles of Planet, People, and Profit, aligning with the six principles of the European taxonomy of impacts. This ensures that every project is rooted in sustainability and fully compliant with ESG standards. It is this alignment—blending artistic vision, scientific research, and systemic responsibility—that makes 90Lab attractive to strategic investors and institutional partners.

The Influence of ENDA and the Birth of a Breakthrough Vision

The conceptual foundations of 90Lab were deeply shaped by Nathalie Illouz’s immersion at ENDA (École Nationale d’Art Contemporain de Paris). Founded in the lineage of avant-garde schools such as Bauhaus and Black Mountain College, and under the intellectual direction of Alexandre Gurita, ENDA is a critical space where traditions are questioned, formats dismantled, and what has already been done must never be redone.
This ethos, where innovation emerges at the frontiers of the unknown, profoundly influenced Nathalie Illouz’s thinking, echoing the legacy of André Malraux, who elevated photography to the rank of an art form.

Her training at ENDA was guided by a demanding team of avant-garde intellectuals, including:

• Eric Monsinjon — art critic at ENDA and the École du Louvre, specialized in avant-garde practices and author of the thesis Invisuel Art, which advocates for the emergence of a “new art after contemporary art” through the abolition of purely visual artworks and the development of a positive/negative ontology.

• Alexandre Gurita — Director of ENDA, known for infiltrating and destabilizing traditional art institutions.

• Ghislain Mollet-Viéville — inventor of the profession of “conceptual art agent.”

From these figures, Nathalie Illouz absorbed the radical idea of thinking beyond the limits of the known, exploring concepts such as “art outside of art,” infiltration methods, and anticipation.

It was in this fertile environment that her reflection on a breakthrough art form began to take shape — leading to the notions of l’empérience and later l’immérence.
These concepts directly align with Monsinjon’s vision of a transformative art “after contemporary art,” positioning 90Lab not as a fleeting trend but as part of a profound metamorphosis in the way art and experience are conceived.

Early Sparks: A Triple-Dimensional Journey

Nathalie Illouz’s path unfolds across three inseparable dimensions — sensory, technical, and scientific. This multidimensional journey began in 2003, when she earned her Master’s degree in Luxury Marketing in Paris, a foundation that connected her to the refined worlds of fashion, art, and hospitality.

Her early career placed her at the very front row of excellence, from working in prestigious boutiques to interning with Mario Testino’s agency in Paris, Madison Model Agency in New York, and the luxury shoe brand Roger Vivier. Her professional horizons also extended into the premium spirits industry, where she gained an insider’s understanding of the codes of experience and exclusivity.

In 2008, she moved to London, beginning a twelve-year chapter that would profoundly shape her vision. At Treehouse PR, she collaborated on projects for Noilly Prat and Grey Goose vodka, where she observed a recurring frustration among executives, the struggle to design truly distinctive client experiences.

Beyond corporate work, she volunteered with the immersive theatre company You Me Bum Bum Train, where she experienced first-hand the transformative power of storytelling and sensory engagement. A pivotal conversation with a functional neurologist, who worked with oenologists and ballet dancers to enhance their emotional resonance ignited Illouz’s decade-long exploration into the connection between the senses and emotions.

This inquiry laid the scientific and artistic foundations for what would eventually become 90Lab.

A Turning Point: From Purple Emotion to 90Lab

In 2013, Nathalie Illouz founded Purple Emotion Ltd, a company specializing in artistic public relations with a focus on luxury hospitality and entertainment. Purple Emotion marked the first formal exploration of her central question: how can emotions be designed, amplified, and measured?

Her trajectory took another decisive turn at St. Martin’s School in London, where she attended a seminar titled “Designing Emotion.” This deepened her conceptual framework, which she soon put into practice through her first experimental immersive projects.

When Nathalie Illouz returned to Paris in 2020, she entered the HEC Challenge+ program in entrepreneurship and innovation, where her project centered on artistic immersive experiences. Shortly after, she joined the ENDA program (École Nationale d’Art Contemporain de Paris) — an intensive immersion with avant-garde thinkers and theorists. This period was crucial: her initial concept of immersion was deemed not disruptive enough.

Under the influence of Éric Monsinjon’s thesis, her reflection evolved toward the possibility of a “new art after contemporary art.” This idea represents a breakthrough innovation — not merely the creation of another art form, but the emergence of art beyond contemporary boundaries. Her pursuit of this artistic rupture draws deep inspiration from pioneers such as Leonardo da Vinci, who revolutionized representation through his multidisciplinary vision, and Marcel Duchamp, who challenged aesthetic conventions and redefined the very nature of art. Their influence reinforces 90Lab’s own mission: to push emotional engineering beyond the limits of existing art forms and into new paradigms of regeneration.

In this spirit, 90Lab positions itself as the next avant-garde, redefining the paradigms of human experience. This focus demonstrates that 90Lab is not a passing trend, but a forward-looking vision capable of reshaping the landscape of experience. Such depth makes the project invaluable to brands seeking innovation, differentiation, and long-term cultural relevance.

It was within this intellectual framework at ENDA that Nathalie Illouz developed the concepts of “l’empérience” (a contraction of empire and experience, inspired by the Age of Enlightenment) and later “l’immérence” (immersion in the symbolic blue of the sea and sky as a meditative and regenerative space).

These ideas, detailed in her final ENDA research paper, became the intellectual soil from which 90Lab emerged.

Lynx® Methodology and the Alchemy of Emotions

The defining pillar of 90Lab is the Lynx® methodology, a proprietary system that bridges artistic freedom with structured innovation. While its full details remain confidential, it is designed around six core elements collectively called “The Alchemy of Emotions.”

The uniqueness of Lynx lies in its measurability — it is not just about designing experiences, but about quantifying their emotional impact. Drawing from research on the equation of emotion (6E), the method creates bespoke emotional journeys that integrate sensory triggers, symbolic codes, and advanced technologies. The Lynx® methodology is also an experiential signature, offering a distinctive and memorable approach to the design of interactions.

For the Agence Nationale de la Recherche (ANR) and other strategic partners, this ability to demonstrate measurable regenerative impact is a decisive advantage. It transforms 90Lab from an artistic vision into a scientifically credible, innovation-ready project.

Thus, 90Lab is not simply the continuation of Purple Emotion. It is its metamorphosis — from exploring emotional resonance in luxury hospitality to building a transdisciplinary laboratory capable of shaping what comes after contemporary art.

Applications: From Luxury to Societal Transformation

The first applications of 90Lab naturally began within the luxury sector — a world that Nathalie Illouz knew intimately from her career in fashion, hospitality, and fine spirits. Here, the Lynx® methodology was deployed to design tailor-made emotional journeys that helped brands differentiate themselves by creating deep and memorable connections with their audiences.

But the vision of 90Lab extends far beyond luxury. The laboratory is now expanding into healthcare and education: two fields where emotional engineering can generate profound regenerative effects.

• Healthcare: designing soothing and engaging environments for patients, fostering emotional resilience and improving well-being during treatment.

• Education: creating immersive learning experiences that cultivate empathy, critical thinking, and curiosity, helping students connect with knowledge on a deeper emotional level.

In every field, 90Lab positions art not as decoration, but as a catalyst for problem-solving — a driver of systemic change.

Strategic Partnerships and Alignment

The credibility of 90Lab is strengthened through partnerships with leading scientific and academic institutions, as well as cultural and creative organizations. These collaborations bring neurological, cognitive, technological, and artistic expertise to its methodology:

• ICM (Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle Épinière, Paris) – advancing the neuroscientific understanding of emotions.

• Censes Institute (London) – specialized in the relationship between the senses and emotion.

• Caltech (California) – research on emotional perception and innovation.

• Stanford (Art & Justice Program) – connecting art, law, and social change.

• Lily Safra Brain Research Center – cognitive and affective neuroscience.

• Brain & Music – exploring the synergy between sound, rhythm, and emotional states.

• IRCAM (Institut de Recherche et Coordination Acoustique/Musique) – advancing the study of sound–emotion synergy.

• IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) – integrating olfactory and gustatory dimensions into experiential design.

• CNRS (Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique) – contributing to both fundamental and applied research.

• Sciences Po – addressing the societal and political dimensions of art and innovation.

Through these alliances, 90Lab demonstrates its ability to quantify and validate the regenerative power of art, ensuring both scientific credibility and measurable results.

At the same time, 90Lab operates as a non-profit association (Law 1901), which makes it fully eligible for sponsorship (mécénat). This structure, by its very flexibility, allows 90Lab to adapt to the needs of its partners and to market evolutions while maintaining its collaborative ethos. It enables corporations and institutions to support an innovative and meaningful project while benefiting from favorable sponsorship mechanisms. For large industrial groups and local communities, this creates a dual advantage — aligning with cultural and ESG commitments while optimizing financial efficiency.

Moreover, 90Lab is committed to aligning all its projects and impact measurement frameworks with the six principles of the European Taxonomy of Impacts and the DNSH principle (“Do No Significant Harm”). This strengthens its position as a leader in sustainable and regenerative innovation, ensuring compliance with the highest ESG standards while attracting both public funding bodies (such as the I Care program developed by ANR) and private investors.

Multidisciplinary Consortium for Impact

90 Lab is committed to building tailor-made consortiums for each project, bringing together experts from diverse disciplines:

• Regenerative engineers

• Philosophers and art theorists

• Neuroscientists and psychologists

• Digital and AI specialists

• Designers and cultural practitioners

This transdisciplinary approach ensures that every project integrates art, science, and innovation in a way that is both holistic and disruptive. By leveraging the finest expertise from each field, 90 Lab is able to design solutions that are artistically groundbreaking, scientifically validated, and strategically relevant.

For calls such as those from the ANR (Agence Nationale de la Recherche), this multidisciplinary model is not only an advantage but also a key marker of credibility, impact, and scalability. It demonstrates 90 Lab’s ability to move beyond individual perspectives, creating comprehensive projects that align with international standards and attract institutional and industrial partners. Cultural organizations such as Live Nation and The Louvre, as well as top talent agencies including CLM Agency, CAA, and Art Partner, are also potential collaborators to amplify the reach and impact of 90 Lab.

90Lab’s DNA: A Constellation of Symbols, Philosophy, and Strategic Narrative

At the symbolic heart of 90Lab lies a constellation of meanings that anchor its vision and distinguish it from conventional laboratories. The Sun, its guiding emblem, embodies illumination, regeneration, and inspiration through three core values:

• Light as knowledge (intellectual clarity)

• Warmth as emotion (human connection)

• Energy as transformation (a catalyst for systemic change)
  

This emblem is enriched by a profound symbolic heritage. The use of three shades of blue, alongside white and red, carries deep artistic and cultural resonance. Combined with the Kabbalistic significance of the number 90—a symbol of depth, truth, and transformation—these elements form a holistic language that transcends the purely visual, offering a way of living and perceiving rooted in regeneration and meaning.

90Lab also draws strength from the influence of Éric Monsinjon’s Invisuel Art, which calls for a “new art after contemporary art” through the abolition of the visual artwork and the exploration of positive/negative ontology. Together, these foundations create a unique emotional architecture and a long-term strategic positioning that extends far beyond fleeting trends.

For cultural leaders and global brands such as LVMH or Ricard, this heritage resonates with values of authenticity, legacy, and emotional depth. More than artistic symbols, they serve as building blocks for regenerative experiences—positioning 90Lab not only as a cultural innovator but also as a strategic partner for organizations seeking differentiation and lasting impact.

To ensure this vision connects with diverse stakeholders, 90Lab communicates its philosophy through clear and action-oriented language. Rather than relying on jargon, it highlights tangible outcomes such as return on engagement—demonstrating how carefully designed emotional experiences deepen loyalty, amplify heritage, and strengthen cultural leadership. For Ricard, this could mean showcasing heritage through regenerative experiences that resonate across generations; for LVMH, it might involve enhancing cultural leadership through unforgettable emotional journeys that set new standards in luxury.

By uniting its symbolic DNA with a strategic narrative, 90Lab demonstrates both intellectual depth and practical value, presenting itself not merely as an avant-garde artistic laboratory but as a visionary partner for innovation, regeneration, and long-term impact.

Emotional Engineering for Regenerative Impact

90 Lab is a platform dedicated to emotional engineering — where art serves as a tool to create regenerative impact. Emotional engineering is the core of its work, and art is the medium through which this vision comes to life. Positioned at the intersection of art, science, and sustainability, 90 Lab aligns its projects with the most rigorous frameworks guiding innovation today.

At the center of this vision lies a regenerative framework that ensures every artistic experience contributes not only to cultural value but also to measurable societal and environmental impact. In accordance with the six principles of the European Taxonomy and the “Do No Significant Harm” (DNSH) principle, 90 Lab guarantees that its initiatives remain fully compliant with ESG standards. This alignment strengthens eligibility for public funding programs such as ANR and France 2030, while also meeting the expectations of impact-focused investors and family offices.

Additional credibility stems from integration with emerging standards such as the AFNOR Spec on Regeneration (developed under Lionel Le Gloanec), which provides scientific robustness and a pathway toward scalability. For industrial groups, this standardization offers both reassurance and opportunity: 90 Lab’s methodology not only inspires but also demonstrates tangible, repeatable, and auditable impact.

By rooting artistic innovation in sustainability, regeneration, and responsibility, 90 Lab positions itself as a leader in sustainable cultural innovation — proving that emotional experiences can serve as a catalyst for positive systemic change.

Offer in Action

90 Lab stands out by translating a deep philosophy into concrete and measurable experiences, transforming emotional engineering into a strategic lever for cultural and industrial partners.

Parisian Anchors of Innovation

The dual presence of 90 Lab in Paris embodies its operational model. The 6th arrondissement serves as a stage for immersive cultural showcases such as Synesthetic Nights, designed for high-end audiences seeking rare and multisensory encounters. Conversely, the 8th arrondissement acts as the artistic and research headquarters — a hub for transdisciplinary collaborations with institutes, scientists, and brands. Together, these spaces demonstrate how regenerative art can simultaneously serve exclusivity and scalability.

The Lynx® Methodology: Measuring the Intangible

At the core of this model lies the proprietary Lynx® methodology, which integrates the 6E Emotional Equation, Neurosensing, and Emotional Blockchain. This system enables 90 Lab to quantify the emotional impact of experiences — turning emotion into a measurable driver of regeneration. The Lynx® methodology is also an experiential signature, offering a distinctive and memorable approach to interaction design. By capturing and amplifying emotional resonance, Lynx® allows brands and institutions to intentionally design customer journeys with demonstrable outcomes in engagement, loyalty, and well-being.

From Concept to Partnership

A clear illustration of this approach can be seen in collaborations such as the Dior case study, where the principles of emotional engineering informed client experiences tailored to luxury contexts. Similar frameworks hold transformative potential across industries — from healthcare, where emotional recalibration enhances patient care, to education, where immersive engagement fosters deeper learning.

Through this operational clarity, 90 Lab proves that emotional experience is not merely an artistic pursuit, but a strategic tool for innovation and industrial differentiation.

Architect of Emotion

As the founder of 90 Lab, Nathalie Illouz embodies the role of an architect of emotion and a cultural visionary. Her career bridges the worlds of luxury, science, and art, and her mission is clear: to redefine the role of art in the 21st century.

By weaving together sensory, technical, and scientific dimensions, she has developed a new methodology capable not only of inspiring admiration but also of demonstrating measurable impact. Nathalie Illouz’s voice is both artistic and strategic — positioning art at the intersection of innovation, science, and sustainability.

Her application to the Villa Albertine (USA) reflects her global ambition to deepen the dialogue between art, science, technology, and society, bringing the vision of 90 Lab to the international stage.

Toward a New Art After Contemporary Art

90 Lab is more than an artistic laboratory — it is a call to action: to rethink the role of art, to measure its regenerative power, and to prove that emotional engineering can serve as a catalyst for systemic change.

By combining avant-garde philosophy, scientific rigor, and sustainable alignment, 90 Lab offers a concrete and disruptive response to the question:
“Can we create a new form of art in the 21st century?”

As James Cameron once said:
“Don’t set any limits for yourself. Others will do it for you.”

90 Lab refuses all limits. It seeks not merely to imagine art beyond the contemporary — but to build it, here, now, and together.